In our three years of full time travel and living on the road, we never made it to Stewart Island/Rakiura. We came close, meeting Rakiura local Lea Melrose in Invercargill early 2021. She told the most amazing and inspiring stories of growing up on the island, and of her explorations running the iconic Rakiura Track. At the time we were en route to the Coastal Ultra in the Caitlins and regrettably couldn’t fit in the trip across the Strait. She had planted the seed though, and we promised to make it back for the bucket-list event, the Rakiura Challenge trail run.
Now finally we are here. And it did not disappoint!
The special and unique thing about Rakiura Challenge is it’s location and isolation. Hosted on Stewart Island/Rakiura, 30 kilometres south of the South Island it boasts the title of New Zealand’s third largest island. Super small in size at just 1,746 km2, over 80% of the land is set aside as National Park. Its permanent population is roughly 400, most of whom live in the settlement of Oban, and on race weekend competitors, supporters and officials likely double that.
Adding to it’s isolation, Rakiura is a place accessible only by ferry (sometimes across vomit-inducing rough waters), or by plane (and we’re talking those teeny tiny ‘put your bag on your lap’ planes). As fans of neither of those travel options, the hardest part of the whole weekend mission was committing to our transfers across Foveaux Strait. We/I eventually settled on the ferry crossing and I was feeling rather chuffed as we left Bluff for our one-hour catamaran crossing, enjoying flat waters on the most stunning and picturesque day. The return trip post-race was another story entirely, and if there is a next time, I’ll seriously consider the 20 minute flight.
Even the lead up to this trip has been super fun, prepping with our BnB housemates and local parkrun crew, Dwight, Sagar, Lee and Lee (yes, that got confusing). Race day this year is October 7, Lee’s birthday (my Lee), and so party plans were made and cake ingredients packed (including cake tins too, just in case the BnB didn’t count on its guests baking). Our holiday extended to five days, we all arrived on Rakiura Thursday, giving us lots of time to explore the beaches and township. Lee and I had both entered the Challenge, although with the kids coming along and still too young to be left for a full day, we were STILL undecided on what ‘race day’ would look like for Team Webber.
FRIDAY, 6th October
The day before the race we woke to a stunner morning, so I threw together an impromptu plan to knock out the 32km track on my own, early, a recce for the housemates if you will. I just had to get myself back to town in time for race rego and dinner. That would leave me free to support and be ‘island taxi’ for the official race on Saturday. I packed my gear and at 9:00am the boys dropped me out at where we assumed the start line of the event to be – the road to Lee Bay. How appropriate.
A Friday hike was the right call. My knee still not 100% and unsure if or when we’d ever be back in this spectacular place, I got to enjoy the track and everything it had to offer at a sensible touristy pace. Lee had written me a course description on a scrap of paper, something that came in handy at a couple of junctions not yet marked or marshalled for the race. A hiker also offered some solid advice early on, having come through the beach trail, he suggested I take the high tide bush route to avoid some of the drama and water he’d had to suffer through. Thank you for that hot tip.
Feeling no pressure of time, I took a few side trails, explored the historical sites and rusting relics from the islands sawmilling days, and sat quietly for a few moments on the stunning Maori Beach. The first 10km is definitely my favourite part of the track.
Port William to North Arm. The middle 13km section is notorious for mud and we’d been well pre-warned. I’m not sure if it’s because I got to pass through it on my own, delicately picking my path and foot placement of the not yet chewed up ground by runners, or if recent weather had been extraordinarily kind to us, but it was pretty darn good. Only once did I loose sight of my foot as it was swallowed up in brown goop, otherwise I managed to stay pretty clean!
Around Kidney Fern Arm and Kaipipi Bay, with about 10km left in the track, I was starting to feel the affects of the solo mission and the absence of aid stations. I realised mid hike that the huts (and a good supply of water) were well off the main trail and this made stretching out my 1L of water too big of an ask. I eventually resorted to dipping my bottle into one of the many free flowing fresh water streams and scooped up a serving of brown tallon stained liquid. It’s not my favourite flavour, but it got me through that last mind-numbing section of buried cobbled road through the forest before popping out at Fern Gully carpark. I pass a residential property with a sign on the gate “Trespassers shot. Survivors shot twice”. The home stretch, 2km of road to the Oban township and my finish line
My arrival back at town was rather unceremonious. My Garmin had me at 31.00km exactly. 5:30:03 with 1267m ascent. I went and sat on one of the bench seats outside the FourSquare, messaging back to the house for a pick up in the questionably road worthy Air BnB car.
Time for a quick shower and then off to Race Rego. Grateful for Race Director Morgan, letting me pick up my race pack and bib as a souvenir, despite my certain DNS for the official event. Dinner one of two is served as we are treated to that which makes the Rakiura Challenge a running ‘race’ like no other!
250 competitors plus volunteers, friends and family. Numbers the local community eateries would certainly struggle to cater for. An absolute genius idea on the part of race organisers, all runners and guests assembling in the hall for a banquet on the Friday and Saturday evenings. Catered for by the neighbouring SIT students of Invercargill, it was easily my favourite part of the weekend; bringing together of everyone for a meal and genuine connection. Pre-race prep and jitters dominating the chatter on the Friday evening as we feasted on pastas, Bolognese, lavish helpings of vegetables, salads and more. And then the recapping of the incredible race experience during Saturdays meal, treated to a local seafood spread, roast meat and vegetables…. this alone is worth the entry fee in monetary and experiential value.
An early night Friday, I’d sleep well with tired legs and no personal stress or anxiety for the event itself. The remaining Butterfield Beach residents go through their pre-race rituals – packing, stretching, massages and strategy discussions, excited by the positive news and first hand confirmation of how good the track conditions are. The lads are all speedsters too. It will be a fast race and a short day crewing.
SATURDAY, 7th October
It’s a short drive to the start line. Heck its a short drive to anywhere on the island. I chaperone the housemates to where I began my run the day before. It’s cold but calm. The early morning light causes everything to glow and it promises to be a fine day.
There are loads of familiar faces here, a strong Southland attendance. Everyone lines up for their bibs and preps for the start. It’s a simple affair. 250 runners, one start, one race distance. And much like the Kepler, there are few opportunities to meet and cheers the runners along the course. Things are underway quickly. I shout words of encouragement to our lads as they speed off out of the gate and along the gravel road. They know there is a nasty incline just 400m in and around that first blind corner. That’ll spread the field out.
I head back to the house to make a start on the birthday cakes and get the kids organised. I’ve got less than three house. Two and a half is Dwight has his way.
Cakes on the cooling rack, I drove the kids and I to town, parking the car near FourSquare again I leave it unlocked with the keys in the ignition. Ex-Police Office Dwight has assured me if any brazen thief took it, they could not get far. Besides, the fuel tank is low and the single petrol station is closed.
I grab a coke and chips from the store, Lee’s usual finish line craving. We head over to the playground adjacent the finish line, supporting the community sausage sizzle fundraiser along the way. It’s not a long wait. Matthew Arnold crosses at 2:32:03. I pop a message off to David Haunschmidt, teasing him that the course record was his for the taking should he have come. He promises to be on the start line next year.
Dwight finishes just five minutes later. He looks relaxed and ready to run the whole thing again. As much younger first and second place finishers sit sprawl on the ground of the finish chute, resting their buggered legs, Dwight crosses the line, is handed a stubbie by his daughter Paige, and downs it in 4 seconds flat. Requesting another, beer in hand, he moves to the side to keep a watchful eye for Sagar and our Lee(s).
The lads at the finish line, left to right, Sagar, Dwight & one of the Lee’s.
Dwight Grieve – 3rd overall, 1st Vet Male. 2:37:24
Sagar Khemani – 6th overall, 3rd Male Open. 2:53:39
Lee Webber – 32nd overall, 7th Vet Male. 3:28:20
Lee Grieve – 22nd Vet Women 6:42:58
Awesome running by everyone. Lots of smiles and high praise for a great race on an amazing trail. A few head to the pub to continue the post-run celebrations, Team Webber retreat to the house. The big kids get some quiet time and somehow Lee and I push out another run to chaperone Nathan and keep his run streak alive. Day 614.
Once everyone has made it back to the house we break out the Birthday cake. Having forgotten to pack a candle, or a means to set it on fire, Lee holds a lit gas gun lighter, blowing out the flame just as the bellowed tune of Happy Birthday reaches it crescendo. Cake demolished, theres just enough time to dip our sore legs in the cold ocean out front before we head off to the Rakiura Challenge Event Dinner and Prizegiving.
What a day. Made absolutely perfect with another runners dinner and then a Kiwi spotting mission on the beach after dark.
SUNDAY, 8th October
As the weather starts to deteriorate, Lee, Dwight, Sagar, Nath and I don our rain jackets for the first time this trip and manage a recovery run. Exploring Horeshoe Point Track and tagging two trigs, this amazing loop is a nice even 6km (with 245 total ascent) from our Butterfield Beach BnB. Stunning views, especially from the Northern point. More Rakiura trail magic. Highly recommend.
Our final full day on the island, we gather our things, tidy the house, eat the remaining food, and shift our thoughts to tomorrows forecast. Expected rough swells, high seas and green gills are almost certain for our early morning ferry crossing. *groan*
RAKIURA CHALLENGE TRAIL RUN
RAKIURA TRACK (Department of Conservation)
